Morimoto Asia — Winston's verdict

Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto's Waikiki outpost is the rare destination restaurant inside a luxury hotel (The Modern) that earns its tourist pricing.

Walking into Morimoto Asia at sunset, the dining room glows. Floor-to-ceiling glass faces the Waikiki marina, the chandeliers throw warm reflections, and the sushi bar — the centerpiece — operates with the choreography of a small orchestra. We sat at the bar and watched Chef Jun work for two hours. The toro tartare arrived first. Three quenelles of bluefin belly so soft they collapsed at the touch of a chopstick, topped with golden caviar and a drizzle of pine nut sesame oil that smelled like fall in Kyoto. The wasabi was fresh-grated, the soy was housemade. This is the dish you remember.

The omakase is where the restaurant proves its commitment. Seven courses, paced by Chef Jun's rhythm, each piece placed in front of you with a one-line explanation. The uni was Hokkaido — not the cheaper California stuff most Honolulu restaurants pass off — and tasted like sweet ocean butter. The wagyu ishiyaki came on a 600-degree volcanic stone; you cook your own A5, table-side, three slices, perfect medium-rare with the truffle ponzu.

Is it expensive? Yes. Is it tourist-priced? Yes. Is it worth it for a special occasion or one Hawaii dinner that you'll remember in a decade? Without question.

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